Wednesday, 11 November 2015

Fitting my Mulfab Brake Reaction Stays

Why Then Fit Brake Reaction Bars, Rods or Stays?

In my case it was because everyone who has already had them fitted recommends their effect on the handling under heavy braking. 

I personally have never had any complaint with 'The Green Goddess' over the 16k plus miles we have travelled together and yes, there have been one or two 'emergency stop' type braking incidents.

These Bars or Rods act to prevent twisting movement under Heavy Braking at the Top of the Morgan 'Cross Frame' which carries the Front Suspension.

This frame is not normally Braced at the Top End in the way that the Lower End is Firmly Braced.

I think that it is also true to say that almost all Morgan Race Cars have them fitted so that was good enough for me.

Some people have asked why the Factory do not fit them as standard? A Good Question. However, as may be clearly seen by this photo of a car in build below, they do fit them on some models or by request.

The 'Brake Reaction Rod' seen here between the Suspension Top to the Chassis (Sept 2011)

There are a variety of suppliers of these rods but I purchased mine from Williams Morgan as I was also purchasing another product from them. I subsequently discovered that they are actually manufactured by Peter Mulberry at Mulfab and are an  improvement on those shown in the Mulfab advert.

I was very pleasantly surprised when they arrived as they are made from 2mm Thick Walled Stainless Steel Tubing. 

They also benefit from a strengthened Top Lug where washers are Welded on and came complete with the correct sized fixing bolts and washers.

All I needed to do now was fit them.

 One Complete Set of Rod and Fixing Bolt

 The Top End Lug with Welded Washer

The Lower End with its fixing Nut & Bolt 

Fitting a Brake Reaction Rod

Due to the ease of access in my garage, I decided to fit the offside rod first.

Before Jacking the front end I needed to undo the Spinner. The car has just been serviced so the Spinner will be difficult to remove. 

I get out my trusty spanner, but have to take care as a 'nosebleed' resulted the last time I tried this so I had to revert to the rubber 'Wind Break' mallet.

Handbrake on and here goes.

My trusty MG Wing Nut Spanner Works a Treat this time. 

 I am only lifting the offside. The Trolley Jack goes under the Cross Member.

Up She Goes. 

The Trolley Jack stays in its Raised position throughout the job.

The Axle Prop is Placed near to this Offside 'Working' End.

The Lower Tie Rod can be seen in front of the Axle Prop.

The Nearside Lower Tie Rod. 
(The Large Plate seen Under the Chassis on the right is my Sump Guard & Deflector)

With the Wheel taken Off I now protect the Tread from Damage and 'Me' from a Grease Bath with this well used Plastic Bag & Tie.

Thread Protector

The Offside Suspension Top

A while ago I fitted a Remote Greasing System supplied by The Nipple Shop. I now need to remove the Feeder Pipe from the top of the suspension.  

A few people have had problems with their pipes cracking. The trick is to have long pipes with gentle curves to spread the 'flexing' over a wide area.

My Protection Gaiter on the Top Spring appears to have slipped, but the spring is extending causing this effect so no problem. 

 A 12mm Spanner removes the pipe coupling.

 The Suspension Bolt is almost out. 

The Extracted Bolt showing the Grease Exiting its base.

The Suspension Top Bolt's Location (Nearside) 

I needed my trusty adjustable spanner to fit this one.

 With the Reaction Rod fitted onto the Top Bolt it is immediately apparent that the Wing Support Bracket needs to 'move over' a little. 

Releasing the bolt slightly and the Rod drops neatly into place.

Note the end of my Remote Greasing Pipe tucked behind the Damper Top

 Down at the Lower End I can now mark the position of the 12mm Hole that needs to be drilled in the Chassis. 

Shock & Horror, some would say. It is the only way to fit the rod! 

Note the little 'Cut Out' in the Chassis? 

This is there to prevent the Tyre Rubbing on the Chassis when the Steering is on maximum lock. Looking at older and different models these cut out vary in size. 

It is therefore important to ensure that the Rod is located hard against the upright.

 The All or Nothing Moment.

I drill a succession of four increasing passes to reach the correct size of hole remembering that occasional squirt of oil to help it on its way.

 The Bolt slips into the hole while the top end is still loose.

 Ready to lock down the Bolts and reconnect the Greasing Tube. 

Due to the extra thickness at the top end I need to re align the Grease Connection Block next.

 All is Tightened Down 

All of the Nuts & Bolts featured are now checked again for correct security

That is the Offside completed.

The Completed Nearside Rod Installation.

 A Squirt of Waxoil on the exposed New Parts will add more protection under there in the gloom and muck.


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